Girls Peasant Blouse Pattern – Long Sleeves and Short – 2 – 10 years

This classic peasant top sewing pattern includes options for full short sleeves or tapered long sleeves, optional slim back sash, and various methods of finishing the neckline and sleeves. Trim A-line shape is great for easy layering.

Sizes 2/3, 4/5, 6/6X, 7/8 and 9/10.

Smaller sizes 0-24 months available here:

Sewing level: Beginner (really!)

You’ll receive your downloadable PDF pattern at your registered Paypal email address instantly upon purchase. You’ll need Adobe Reader to view it and regular 8.5” x 11” or A4 printer paper and a printer. No paper copy will be mailed.

Sewing Tutorial: Shirred Peasant Sleeves

I love showing you how to get more out of your Tie Dye Diva patterns! This tutorial was inspired by this amazing photo by Jeannine of Kinder Couture Clothing.

How could one not be inspired by that gorgeous set, happy girl and stunning photo? Jeannine used the Tie Dye Diva Peasant Top for Girls pattern and without altering the pattern at all, added some shirring to the sleeve and left the sleeve hem ungathered. The shirring causes the top of the sleeve to balloon into gorgeous little puffs and shortens the length. (More about Jeannine’s outfit shown can be found on the Kinder Couture blog.) Thanks to this inspirational set, I bring you:

You can use this tutorial for the Peasant Blouse for Girls pattern and Belle Tiered Twirl Dress for Girls pattern.

I love the shorter sleeve length naturally formed by this method, but if you wanted to keep the sleeve at full length after shirring, you can to lengthen the sleeve pattern by 1″ to 2″ before you cut the fabric (I lengthened by 2″, it was a bit more than needed). To do this, cut across the pattern below the “peak” at the bottom of the armhole. The natural break in the printed pages is a fine place! Separate the top and bottom of the sleeve by the amount you want to lengthen the sleeve. Be sure to keep the vertical centers of both pieces aligned.

Slip some paper beneath and tape into place. Redraw the under arm seam by blending the lines through the new portion.

Cut around the new pattern piece.

Hem the sleeve as in step 1 of the peasant blouse pattern instructions. Then, instead of following Step 2, leave the sleeve hem ungathered. Next, draw shirring lines. First draw a line parallel to the sleeve hem 2″ beneath the peak at the bottom of the back (double-notched) armhole (on the right of my photo).

Then draw two more lines, each 2″ apart.

[If you want to create sleeves with this style for one of the baby-sized patterns (Peasant Top for Baby or Belle for Baby) in size 6 months or smaller you will need to reduce the proportions for the shorter sleeve; try beginning 1.5″ from the back armhole peak and subsequent lines 1″ apart; you will not get as much ‘puff’ between the shirring lines).]

Shirr along these lines on the right side of the fabric with a top thread that matches your fabric and elastic thread in the bobbin.  Shirring isn’t scary. It’s as simple as hand-winding your bobbin with elastic thread and sewing straight lines. I’ll go over the basics here; or you can find dozens of tutorials online, and I offer a more thorough shirring tutorial including troubleshooting in my PDF pattern for the Belle Tiered Twirl dress in either size range. If you really don’t want to try, I suppose you could get a similar look by following the general method in this tutorial but stitching bias tape casing to the wrong side of the sleeve instead of shirring and threading elastic through. You could also stretch 1/4″ elastic and zig-zag stitch it directly to the wrong side of the fabric if you did not mind elastic against the skin.

The first step in shirring is hand-winding an empty bobbin. First feed one end of the elastic through the hole in your bobbin, from the underside. I find it really helpful to use a long thin object with a handle for this next step; for example, my small sewing machine screwdrivers work perfectly. Place the bobbin on your tool. With your non-dominant hand, hold the loose end of the thread down, and also hold the bobbin firmly against the handle of the tool. With your other hand, wind the elastic thread on the bobbin. Keep only the slightest bit of even tension on the elastic, trying not to stretch
it. When the bobbin is fully wound, clip the end of the thread coming through the hole.

Load the bobbin into your machine and draw the elastic thread up through your throat plate as usual, pulling both threads behind the presser foot. Using your longest stitch length and regular tension, sew along the marked lines from the right side of the fabric.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of shirring, or, alternatively, tie the top and elastic threads together at each end when you are through. Don’t steam your shirring just yet.

Complete steps 3 and 4 as usual. On Step 5, when you are sewing up the side seam of the top and underseam of the sleeve, it is best to sew with a sewing machine, then finish the edge of the fabric with a serger so that you don’t serge through your lines of shirring.

Complete the top according to the instructions.

Last, steam up the shirring lines by hovering a steam iron over the elastic (don’t iron on the elastic!). Then enjoy the pretty shirred sleeves on your Tie Dye Diva Peasant Top!

The thinner the fabric, the poofier your puffs will be. My fabric is a bit thicker than the fabric used for the Kinder Couture top and so my poofs are not quite as full, but I love the look nonetheless.

You can find the sewing patterns for the Tie Dye Diva Peasant Top for Girls, Peasant Top for Baby, Belle Tiered Twirl Dress for Girls, Belle for Baby, and more than 50 other patterns at the Tie Dye Diva patterns website or in the Tie Dye Diva etsy shop.

So many adorable designs at Kinder Couture Clothing. Show her some love for sharing her method that inspired this fun tutorial! Thank you Jeannine! 


Baby / Toddler Peasant Top Pattern – Long Sleeves and Short – PDF

A classic peasant top sewing pattern for baby and toddler girls with long sleeve and short sleeve options. You’ll use this pattern all year long! Full, puffy short sleeves or tapered long sleeves, optional slim sash, A-line shape for easy layering under jumper dresses or costumes. Dress pattern not included, the model in the first photo is wearing The Fairytale Dress pattern.

Sizes 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-18 months and 18-24 months. See my other listings for the Girl’s peasant blouse pattern

Sewing level: beginner

You’ll receive your downloadable PDF pattern at your registered Paypal email address instantly upon purchase. You’ll need Adobe Reader to view it and regular 8.5” x 11” or A4 printer paper and a printer. No paper copy will be mailed.

How to Sew French Seams – Tuesday Tutorial

In continuing with our seam finishing tutorials and making our clothing gorgeous on the inside too, I thought I would share with you another simple and lovely seam finish, the French seam.  If you would like to see our previous post on seam finishes, you can find them here at Quick Seam Finishes.

French seams are probably one of the more popular seam finishes because they’re so easy to sew and hide raw edges well.  It’s also the perfect seam finish for lightweight or even sheer fabric.  Today I’ll show you two different ways to sew a French seam.

To demonstrate this seam finish I’m using the newest Tie Dye Diva pattern, the Lemon Drop Dress and Tunic.

I absolutely love this pattern with its curved bodice and twirly goodness, not to mention those large lovely pockets for all kinds of treasures!

This pattern is available in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years, includes tunic measurements, ruffles and a hem finish, and is also available in the 14.5″ doll and 18″ doll sizes.

Let’s get started, shall we?  Ok, one more picture of that amazing twirl…

The French Seam

Most importantly when sewing a French seam is to know your pattern’s seam allowance (SA) before cutting your fabric.  Also note which seams are enclosed in the pattern and which ones you will need to finish using a French seam.  Using the Lemon Drop dress’s SA of 1/2″, I know I will have enough SA to sew a French seam, and I will be applying this seam finish to the side seams as the bodice and straps are enclosed.

Method 1

This first method is the most common way to sew a French seam.  First, take your fabric pieces and place the side seams wrong sides together.

Sew your seam using a 1/4″ SA.

Press your seam open to set your stitches.  This also makes it easier to get a clean fold at the seam.

Fold your fabric wrong sides together again and trim your SA to 1/8″.  Here I’m trimming and removing 1/8″ of my 1/4″ SA.

Now fold your fabric right sides together enclosing your SA inside your seam.

Sew using a 1/4″ SA.

Press your seam open and there you have your French seam!  Your raw seam is completely encased and hidden.  I love how finished a French seam looks!

Here is the front view, seen clearly by the headless unicorn.

Method 2  (the serger method)

This method is very quick, but I will caution that it uses a bit more SA.  When using this method, you may want to increase your SA by 1/8″ (if your pattern calls for a 1/2″ like the Lemon Drop).  If your pattern has a 5/8″ SA, you’re good to go and don’t need to add anything.  I didn’t increase my SA and you will see why in my note below.

First, take your fabric pieces and place the side seams wrong sides together.

Now instead of sewing, serge this seam making sure not to cut off any of your SA.

Press this seam open and fold your fabric right sides together to enclose your serged seam.  Since you’re not trimming this seam, you will need to make sure you’re sewing with a SA wide enough to completely enclose this serged seam, otherwise you will see it from the front.  I’ve highlighted my serged seam on the ruler so you can see exactly where it is inside my fold.

A little note about the importance of seam allowance here.  This is where I will be using a 5/16″ SA to completely enclose my serged seam.  This is just a smidge wider than the 1/4″ serged seam and ensures it will be completely hidden.

If you had cut your fabric using an extra 1/8″ SA at the sides like I mentioned above, you would just sew this next seam using a 3/8″ SA and be done.  This is most important if the garment you are sewing is fitted and every 1/16″ makes a difference (I’ve been there, it DOES make a difference in a fitted garment!).  Since the Lemon Drop dress has a gathered skirt portion, I didn’t see the point in making a larger SA, or maybe just do as I say and not as I do!

Now press open and you’re done!

Why use one method over the other?  The serger method is quick and can make the seam a little sturdier, making it easier to turn over and sew the French seam.  It is a bit of a heavier French seam than method 1 is, and if your child has sensitivity to thicker seams, I would definitely recommend method 1.  Here’s a picture comparing the two.

You can see the serged French seam on the right is a bit stiffer.  It’s not a huge deal, but for those looking for a seam finish that’s “softer”, method 1 may be your best bet.

This is also a very easy way to finish the seams in the Lemon Drop Doll pattern too!

You can use this seam finish in many of Tie Dye Diva’s patterns, not just the Lemon Drop.  Here are just some of my favorite patterns that would look great finished with French seams!

Patterns from left to right, top to bottom:  Fair and Square Dress and Top, Peasant Blouse for Girls, Every Day Top, Butterfly Dress, Jon and Janie Romper, Day Dreamer Dress, Potato Chip Pants and Shorts, Seaside Sailor Dress for Baby, and the Easy Peasy Peasant Dress for Girls.

You can find all of these patterns and more in Tie Dye Diva’s pattern shop.  Now you can French all the seams!  Just pay attention to those seam allowances, alright?

Don’t forget to share your makes and inspire us all in Tie Dye Diva’s Facebook group or follow and tag us @tiedyediva on Instagram.  We love to see all those gorgeous seams!

The Potato Chip Skirt and Top Pattern Set for 18″ doll – PDF

You know she is going to want her doll to match her brand new wardrobe full of Potato Chip Skirts! So here you go, Potato Chip Skirt pattern set for 18″ dolls like American Girl and Australian Girl. Can’t leave dolly without a top, so the peasant top pattern is included also, as is a template for the hand embroidery.

Fits most 18″ dolls. We have a Wellie Wisher skirt and top pattern set as well!

An easy and quick sew with no gathering needed. Beginner/Advanced Beginner.

You can find the Potato Chip Skirt for Girls and child-sized Peasant Blouse patterns separately on our website.

You will receive your PDF pattern as an instant download upon purchase, and you will need Adobe Reader to view it and regular 8.5” x 11″ or A4 printer paper and a printer for printing the patterns. No paper copy of the pattern will be mailed.

A Year of Dresses: Belle Dress for Winter

This week I had the pleasure of sewing with some more fabulous Blend Fabrics.  It is always a pleasure to work with these fabrics, they are so soft!  These fabrics are part of the Equinox collection by Ana Davis for Blend Fabrics.

Blend Fabrics courtesy photo
Equinox is a pretty collection of lattice, paisley, and scallop designs.  The fabrics I used featured warm pinks, oranges, gray, and taupe, but the collection includes beautiful teals and greens and well.
What did I make with these lovely fabric?  One more dress that will help us get through the cold winter months of course.  This time the Belle Peasant Dress with long sleeves.

The Belle Peasant Dress Pattern is available in both baby and girls sizes. Baby Sizes range from 0-24 months. The Belle for Girls pattern includes sizes 2-10. Baby sizes are masterfully drafted so that Baby is not drowned in too much dress, while the twirl factor is maximized for walking toddlers and girls.  Belle is a beginner level sewing pattern.  The raglan sleeves, elastic casings, and gathered tiers keep it simple!  The pattern includes both long and short sleeves.  You’ll sew this dress all year long! Three options are included for the neck and sleeve gathering including a full shirring tutorial.  I chose a folded casing for both my neckline and sleeves.

The tiered style of Belle makes it a great pattern for mixing fabric colors and prints.  Fabric placement can completely change the look of the drsss!  It is also a great stash buster.  Each tier through size 6 can be made from just 1/2 yard of fabric (only 5/8 yard is needed for larger size tiers).

On this Belle I added a simple tie to the back of the dress.  Sometimes I add a tie to this dress, sometimes I don’t. It just depends on my mood!  My Spring Belle did not include a tie (while you’re there, make sure to notice how much Sweet Pea’s hair has grown!).  This dress is a size 2/3.  Sweet Pea is well into the top of the 2T size range for height (coming in at 36″) but her chest measurement is hovering between 18-24 months and 2T at 20.5″.  All that to say, I added a tie this time because Sweet Pea is on the skinny side.
Adding a tie is quite simple.  If you own Jen’s Peasant Blouse pattern, instructions are included there and my inspiration is taken directly from that pattern.  But, if you haven’t added that pattern to your collection, here’s how you can add a tie to your Belle Peasant Dress:
  • Cut two tie strips.  Mine were 2″ x 22″. You may need to adjust the length of your strips for smaller sizes.
  • Fold each strip, right sides together, to form a narrow tube.
  • Sew across one end and up the length of the tube using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
  • Clip the corners on the end you sewed and turn the tube.
  • Iron
  • Baste the ties to side of the back bodice piece 5/8″ from the bottom edge before sewing the sleeve and side seam.
  • Now finish your dress according to the pattern instructions
I think it’s safe to say she loves her twirly dress and I do too.  It is a perfect dress for every occasion.   It’s easy to run and play in with ease of movement.  It’s fun to dance and twirl in.  It dresses up easily!  Change your fabrics choices and sleeve lengths and this dress transforms from Christmas dress to beach dress to Easter dress to play dress.
Here’s your quick pattern details:

  • Baby sizes 0-24 months
  • Girls sizes 2-10
  • Beginner level sewing pattern
  • Full shirring tutorial included
  • Long and short sleeve options


The Fairytale Handkerchief Hem Dress Pattern – Girls 1 to 7/8

A TDD classic pattern. With two layers of full, rustly skirts, lace-up bodice and ‘reverse knot’ back, your little one will feel like a true princess in the Fairytale Dress!
Versatile – a strappy summer dress, a gorgeous jumper over a top, a dramatic holiday dress, a base for a favorite character or princess costume – try a tulle or sparkle net layer! Layer over bloomers or leggings or wear it on its own. The reverse knot back allows for growing room.

Title of this pattern: The Fairytale Dress (1-5 years)
Sizes included: 12-18 months, 18-24 months, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
BONUS eBook included that you can only purchase here at The Fairytale Top in sizes 6/6X and 7/8.

The peasant top pattern is not included. We have peasant blouse patterns for girls and baby at the link.

Supplies list in last image.

Recommended sewing experience: advanced beginner due to buttonholes. Buttonholing makes the nicest finish, though complete instructions are included for creating the dress with no buttonholes.

No paper copy of the pattern will be mailed. Your Fairytale Dress sewing pattern will arrive as an instant download link immediately upon your payment, and you will download it in PDF format. You will need Adobe Reader to view it and regular 8.5” x 11 printer paper (or A4) and a printer for printing the patterns.

Wellie Wishers Clothes Patterns – Reversible Skirt and Top Pattern – fits 14.5″ dolls

This bundle of two patterns made to fit Wellie Wishers dolls includes a reversible skirt (similar to our Potato Chip Skirt pattern for girls) and a sweet and simple peasant top pattern too so you can make a complete outfit – or a whole new wardrobe of them!

The skirt is reversible for twice the fun! Easy pull-on style. For a similar style for girls, check out our Potato Chip Skirt pattern.

The peasant top closes with Velcro or snaps in the back for easy dressing. For a similar style for girls, see our Peasant Top for Girls.

Recommended sewing experience: Advanced Beginner

Designed to fit 14.5″ Wellie Wishers dolls. These patterns will not fit American Girl, we have a skirt and top pattern for American Girl.

Wellie Wishers is a trademark of American Girl LLC, this is not an official Wellie Wishers product and we are not affiliated with American Girl or Wellie Wishers.

You might like our lovely Lemon Drop Dress and Top pattern and Reversible A Line Dress Pattern for Wellies too!

You will receive your PDF pattern as an instant download upon purchase, and you will need Adobe Reader to view it and regular 8.5” x 11″ or A4 printer paper and a printer for printing the patterns. No paper copy of the pattern will be mailed.

You may sell what you personally make with Tie Dye Diva sewing patterns. The pattern itself is copyright protected and use is restricted to the purchaser only.

Tutorial Tuesday: Create Short Puffed Sleeves On The Everyday Top

The Everyday Top is exactly that. It’s the perfect laid back top for everyday!  The pattern is loaded with neckline options so no two tops need to look the same.  I chose to make this top with a sweet Peter Pan collar.  Today I’ll be showing you an easy way to make one more modification to the everyday top making it perfect for year round wear.  Keep reading to learn how to modify the pattern’s long, slim sleeve into a short, puffed sleeve!

Modifying the sleeve takes a few steps but, is easier than you might think.  I’ll be using the slash and spread method to create a classic puffed sleeve similar to that on Baby’s Party Dress.  Because I am not a pattern drafter, I referred to the Girl’s Peasant Top pattern for an approximate sleeve inseam on a puffed sleeve. I am making a size 3 for Sweet Pea. You may need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve length slightly for other sizes.  Ready? Let’s go:

Shorten, Slash, and Spread the Sleeve Pattern:

  1. Grab the Everyday Top sleeve pattern piece and trim to the size needed, in my case, size 3.
  2. Measure and mark the sleeve length.  My underarm sleeve length is 2 3/4″.  I curved the line up ever so slightly closer to the center fold line.  Think 1960’s puff sleeve instead of 1980’s.
  3. Trim the sleeve length on the line drawn.
  4. Draw a guide line perpendicular to the center fold line.  This will allow for keeping the pieces in line when spreading.
  5. Now we are ready to draw our spreading lines.  Draw a vertical line half an inch in from the center fold.  Draw a second, third and fourth line each one inch from the previous line.
  6. Before cutting the sleeve apart (this is the slashing part!), it is helpful to number each section as it is important to keep them in the correct order. Then cut on each slash line drawn. You should now have five sleeve sections.
  7. Next, spread the sleeve sections on a separate piece of paper. Using the guideline drawn in step 4 to keep the pieces aligned, tape each piece with a one inch gap between them. Almost done!
  8. Next we will add a little height to he cap of the sleeve, allowing it to puff. Measure 1/2″ up from the top of the center fold side of  the sleeve. Then continue the curve to meet up with the right hand, top corner of the first sleeve section. Connect the sleeve section on the hem edge and we have successfully slashed and spread a sleeve. Congratulations!
  9. Add a notch to the pattern piece at the edge of section 1. This will be where gathering threads start and stop. Be sure to transfer the notch to the sleeve as you cut it out.
  10. Cut out the sleeve. Congratulations! You have successfully slashed and spread a sleeve! Cut out two sleeves on the fold as you would for the original, long sleeve. Make sure and remember to mark the notch.
Sewing a Short Puff Sleeve:
Sewing a short, puff sleeve is easy, there are just a few modifications from the Everyday Top instructions.  Assemble the top up to the point of setting in the sleeve. Then follow these simple instructions:
  1. Sew two rows of gathering threads, at 3/8″ and 5/8″, between the notches on the top of the sleeve.
  2. Hem the sleeve with a folded casing by folding up 1/4″ then another 1/2″ and stitch close to the folded edge.
  3. Set in the sleeve. Match the center points and edges. Place another pin at the notch, this will be close to the yoke seam but not necessarily lined up.
  4. Gather the sleeve to fit. Stitch and finish this seam.
  5. Insert 1/4″ elastic in the hem casing. I used 8″ for my size 3.  I again referred to the Girl’s Peasant Top for a guideline on elastic length. As you thread the elastic through the casing, stop to secure the elastic before it disappears inside the casing by stitching through the hem and elastic about 1/4″ from the edge. Continue threading elastic through and secure on the opposite side in the same manner.
  6. Sew and finish the side and sleeve inseam in the manner describe in the Everyday Top pattern.
  7. As a final step, secure the seam allowance on the sleeve casing with a few stitches to help it lay flat and be less bulky.
  8. Finish according to the Everyday Top pattern instructions.  Hooray, it’s done!
I lengthened Sweet Pea’s top by a little bit knowing that she outgrows everything in length long before width. Then I whipped up a pair of Sterling Leggings (shortened to capri length) for a complete outfit.  Now go grab some fabric and try it for yourself. With this simple modification the Everyday Top also becomes the “Every-Season Top”!


A Year of Dresses: Stripwork Fairytale Dress

My favorite part of sewing is being able to create something new.  Sometimes that’s simply following a wonderful Tie Dye Diva pattern. Other times it’s taking wonderful elements from one pattern and mix it up for a brand new creation.  That’s exactly what I’ve done this week. I have used the Fairytale Dress Pattern as my base but created a very different skirt.  It looks entirely new!  Gathered skirts are probably the easiest element of a dress to modify.  I’ll show you today how to make your very own Stripwork Fairytale.

The Fairytale Dress pattern includes sizes 12-18 months through size 5, but, when  you purchase directly from the Tie Dye Diva website you also receive bonus sizes 6/6X and 7/8. The Fairytale dress is incredibly versatile. It is great layered with a Peasant Top or tee, but is also perfectly suited to wearing as a strappy sundress.  The reverse know style provides a flexible fit that can grow with the wearer, that means it fits longer! This pattern is rated for advanced beginner level seamstresses because of the buttonholes used to lace the front and tie the straps through on the back, Though buttonholes are the nicest finish on this pattern, instructions are included for a no buttonhole version also.  I’d encourage you to venture into the world of buttonholes if you’ve never tried them.  Once you are familiar with your machine, they really are not difficult!

Alright, let’s modify this pattern!  Begin by making the bodice exactly as directed in the pattern.

Now let’s make the skirt.  It’s helpful to have a notepad and pen handy to jot down some numbers.

  • Measure the bottom edge of your bodice.  Mine was 11.5″.
  • Double that number to get our desired skirt width for the front and back. 11.5 x 2 = 23.  I want a skirt front and back piece that are each 23″ wide when finished.
  • Next add 1″ for the seam allowance (1/2″ on each side) 23 + 1 = 24″. Write that down.
  • For skirt length I have done all the work for you for an at knee length.  This is the length of your skirt panels before the hem band and therefore the length of your strips.  Write it down.
    • 12-18 month – 10.25″
    • 18-24 month – 11.24″
    • 2 – 13.5″
    • 3 – 15.25″
    • 4 – 16.75″
    • 5 – 17.75″
    • 6/6X – 19.75″
    • 7/8 – 21.25″
  • If you would like to calculate your own length follow this simple formula.
    • Try the bodice on the intended wearer.
    • Measure from the seam line (1/2″ above the bottom edge) to the desired length and subtract 1″ This assumes that you will be adding a hem band as I have.  Trust me, it works! If you did your own measurements, write that number down.
  • You now have the size of your skirt panels. Mine were 24″ x 13.5″. Write it down and highlight it!
  • Now pop over to the Stripwork Tutorial (did you know that was my very first blog post ever!) and follow the steps there to piece your stripwork.  For my skirt I chose 5 fabrics repeated one time on each the front and the back.
  • Once your panels are compete come back here and we’ll finish up.
  • Next we will measure and cut the hem band. I do not recommend cutting the hem band until your stripwork panels are done. You may have adjusted your panel measurement following the stripwork tutorial. This will ensure that your hem band is exactly the right width. So, measure the bottom edge of your panel and cut your hem bands this width by 5″ tall.
  • Sew your skirt side seams; finish this seam.
  • Sew your hem bands into a loop.
  • Fold your hem band in half lengthwise and press.
  • Sew to the bottom of your skirt panel with right sides together. Finish this seam, press towards the skirt panels, and topstitch.

Your skirt is done!  Now let’s add it to the bodice and your Stripwork Fairytale dress will be done. Gather the top edge using your favorite gathering method (I use two basting threads) and sew to the bottom of your bodice, right sides together. Finish this seam, press towards the bodice, and topstitch. Now finish your dress by tying the laces according to the pattern instructions,

Forgive the bow coming undone, I think I’ll add a stitch to keep it tied!

There you have it, a Stripwork Fairytale dress to brighten your spring wardrobe.  Sweet Pea thought it was the perfect dress for a pretend picnic!


Here’s your quick pattern rundown:

  • Sizes 12 months through 5 with bonus top pattern in sizes 6-8
  • Advanced Beginner sewing level
  • Optional loops means no buttonholes required
  • Adjust able fit with reverse knot styling
  • Versatile. Layer with long or short sleeves or wear as a sundress.